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Article: Meet our perfumer - Stefan Georgiev

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Interview

Meet our perfumer - Stefan Georgiev

In our collection of "Seasons in life", almost every fragrance is a collaboration with different perfumers. We are delighted to have partnered with Stefan Georgiev.

Stefan's journey to becoming a perfumer is another inspiring story. Born and raised in Bulgaria, his academic background in sociology and philosophy took an unexpected turn after a significant breakup. In a moment of decisive clarity, he purchased a ticket to Paris. First learning French, then immersing himself in chemistry, he eventually underwent training at the perfumery school Ecole Superieure du Parfum. His path eventually led him to his dream, a skilled perfumer at Feels S.A.S in the heart of Grasse. I am particularly fond of Stefan's unique and innovative olfactory sense. When I first experienced his creation, my reaction was immediate and intuitive: THIS IS our Solitude! I hope you enjoy our conversation with the creative mind behind the fragrance 'Solitude.


Sonja: Stefan, many people might not be familiar with the path of becoming a perfumer. Can you share with us what inspired you to choose this career and the path you took? Were there any pivotal moments or experiences that led you to wanting to be a perfumer? Could you describe the training and education you underwent to hone your craft?

Stefan: Before I came to France, I had a girlfriend I was madly in love with. Unfortunately, or fortunately, she left me. I went through a difficult breakup, and things got better when I decided to do an exciting job, no matter when. It was while crossing a boulevard that the idea came to me. I said to myself, "I love perfume; I want to be a perfumer, it's as simple as that." At the time, I was finishing my studies in sociology and philosophy. I bought a plane ticket and landed in Paris on January 7, 2014.

To this day, I can't explain why I realized, at that moment, that I wanted to become a perfumer. I just felt the urge to pursue and follow my intuition. When I came to Paris, I first learned French. Then, I pursued a bachelor's degree in chemistry and subsequently completed a master's degree in chemistry, focusing on subjects related to perfumery. Becoming a perfumer isn't just about studying; it's about learning raw materials, developing a methodology for understanding scents, knowing how to describe them, understanding their powers, and, above all, interpreting what the customer wants so that you can transcribe it into a creation. It's one of the most sought-after professions in our industry, and positions are very hard to come by. I was fortunate to be guided by the skilled perfumer Stéphanie Bakouche during my training.

Sonja: As a perfumer, you have the ability to transport people through scent. Is there a specific memory of a fragrance or story that has had a profound impact on you?

Stefan: I would say the smell of someone you love - My mother.

There are three siblings in my family, and we grew up with our grandparents so that we didn't have to stay at home on our own and get into mischief when my mother was at work. She came to see us every day or two and stayed for a few hours. Sometimes she'd get tired and take a nap, so her cushion would pick up her scent, and my sister and I would bicker about who would sleep on it because it was soaked in her scent. She often gave us perfumes too. I think I created a link between her absence from my life and the smells, which is why I wanted to get closer to them.

Sonja: What would you tell the younger version of you if you could time travel?

Stefan: I've always wanted to succeed, and that's why, from a very young age, I've invested a lot of effort and made many sacrifices. For me, the charm of success is not knowing whether you're going to succeed or not but giving the best of yourself to get there. The choices and concessions I've made in the past have enabled me to learn a lot about myself and others. If it hadn't been for the difficulties I went through and the strength they gave me, I wouldn't be the person I am today.

Sonja: How would you describe your personal fragrance style or philosophy as a perfumer? What sets your creations apart from others in the industry? Are there any signature notes or ingredients you find yourself drawn to when creating fragrances? What about these elements speaks to you?

Stefan: I'd describe myself as a rebel. I like to use raw materials that are rarely or never used in unexpected combinations. A bit like in the kitchen. Before a dish became a star in a gourmet restaurant, it was simply a 'crazy idea' in the head of a chef. We love what we know and understand. The art of the perfumer is to create something that consumers don't know but will fall in love with when they smell it for the first time.

What makes my creations different is the fact that I don't have just one way of formulating. Many perfumers have their habits in terms of raw materials that they know well and like to use. I like to take risks and dare to propose something less usual. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

I really like tonka bean, sandalwood, and iridescent notes, cereal notes, and pencil lead (Cedre Texas or Virginie). I've always preferred to use a pencil rather than a pen. I really like the smell of old books; it reminds me of a vanilla pod.

Sonja: Do you have a long list of formulas in creation?

Stefan: All perfumers have a more or less long list of formulas in terms of creativity. I once knew someone who had worked with Edmond Roudnitska, one of the greatest perfumers of the 20th century. He told her, "the best are not on TV," even though some of them have had real success.

We create perfumes for people, for the little kid I was, whose mother gave him perfumes he liked to wear. It's not quantity but quality that matters.

Sonja: Your collaboration with Kensla Studio resulted in the Solitude fragrance, which embodies qualities like contemplation, self-love, create the space and connect with yourself. Can you share how you interpreted these themes into the scent's composition?

Stefan: For me, contemplating and connecting with oneself are the moments when we stay alone with our thoughts, our dreams, and our imagination. One of the best ways to do this is to read a good book that takes us away from reality.

I made the link with paper and its smell, which I love, as I mentioned earlier, and its origins, namely wood. I chose to focus on Atlas cedarwood because its natural habitat is above 1400 m altitude. I imagined this place as being very quiet and probably a little cold, which led me to use camphor and aquatic notes that bring a cold freshness for me.

Loving yourself is a very personal pleasure. I love touching rose petals; I find them very soft, like silk. That's why I wanted to use the rose as the flower in this composition. There's also a peach/apricot note in the top that I really like, highlighted by notes that express the softness of peach skin when you touch it.

Sonja: Beyond your work as a perfumer, are there any other passions or hobbies that inspire you creatively? How do they influence your approach to fragrance creation?

Stefan: I would say that one of my strongest passions is learning new things. I'm very interested in science, and certain discoveries fascinate me.

In the creation of a perfume, there is scientific accuracy and methodology, and the creative inspiration that makes a fragrance the work of a perfumer. It's the symbiosis between these two elements that embodies my way of formulating.

Sonja: What perfume do you wear most of the time? Or do you wear perfumes at all?

Stefan: I only wear perfumes when I'm not working. I like to change my perfume every day; it awakens different emotions in me, and I very often choose a perfume according to my mood. If I had to choose just one for the rest of my life, it would be Black Orchid by Tom Ford.

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